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Are seed oils moisturizing? A cautionary tale

Valerie Jaquith

Are seed oils moisturizing?

What about seed butters and plant waxes? Are they moisturizing?

What do we mean by “moisture” and what is a “Moisturizer”?

What is the difference between a Salve, a Balm, an Ointment, an Unguent, a Lotion, or a Cream - why do these terms matter?

How do we know what our skin needs when it feels dry?

. . . .

The word “Moisturizer” is nothing but a marketing term and is often listed on products containing no moistening ingredients at all. We see this all the time!

Not only is describing oil as moisturizing inaccurate, but it can have negative impacts when your skin craves WATER, not OIL.

If the label says “moisturizer” but contains zero “moisture” it will not have the effect you are hoping for and it can definitely make matters worse!

. . . .

A quick Google search proves that oils and butters are commonly claimed to moisturize skin. Despite this inaccuracy, this is a very common practice. Check out this Google search for “NATURAL MOISTURIZERS”. Confused?

Recently, a woman I know who lives in my town came to me with very irritated, itchy, dry, red, flaky skin on her face. MJ is 67. She had recently stopped using a “moisturizer” and was applying facial oils to dry skin constantly yet her condition was worsening.

She reported that her usually mild, dry skin condition, was becoming intolerable - redness, flaking, and itchy skin on her face was causing her serious discomfort and concern.

In a desperate attempt to get relief, she tried a lovely coconut oil-based botanical salve. After using that salve for a few days her situation went from bad to worse!

She went to the doctor and was given topical steroid cream but she was reluctant to rely on it, instead, she came to me hoping for a different option.

My friend is not alone.

I am SO glad she came to me for help. I provided her with information, some products, and a routine. Her skin immediately began to calm down. She only needed the steroid cream for a day or 2. She healed quickly and learned a lot about what to use to relieve the feeling of being parched and dehydrated, this is not pure oil or a coconut oil salve, but rather, a well-formulated lotion to provide the moisture her skin was crying out for.

. . . .

Topical corticosteroid application and the structural and functional integrity of the epidermal barrier. J Clin Aesthetic Dermatol. 2013;6(11):20–27. [PMC free article] [PubMed] [Google Scholar] [Ref list]. “With respect to the inflammatory response, topical steroids may be necessary to mitigate inflammatory skin disease. However, topical steroids can also have direct implications related to epidermal barrier function. These include epidermal atrophy, reduced keratinocyte size, decreased free fatty acids, and increased TEWL”.

. . . .

In lieu of lotions, creams, and “moisturizers” many of us seeking a pure, natural option are turning to the use of pure oils and seed butters to relieve dry skin. These include Shea, coconut, olive, almond, mango butter, etc.

Not too long ago there was an internet flurry over some articles disparaging this practice. Indeed, many people do not get great results with this approach, but others … absolutely do!

Who benefits and who does not depends on many factors: The current condition of the skin, your age, and even your sex, the climate, season of the year and environment, your diet, genetics, skin type, and skincare routine, just to name a few.

If you discover you are among the many NOT getting great results you might be wondering what could be causing new dry skin issues or making dry, flaky, itchy skin worse.

. . . .

Our skin is the LAST organ to receives nutrients from the food we eat. It’s also the last organ to get the water we drink.

Skin dehydration is very rare from not drinking enough water. In most cases, if your skin is dehydrated due to lack of water consumption you would be experiencing systemic symptoms beyond the scope of this discussion. That said, skin CAN become dehydrated at the surface.

. . . .  

WATER DRY (dehydrated) or OIL DRY (dry skin type)?

Our skin requires both Oil AND Water to stay happy and plump. When skin is lacking either the outward appearance can be very similar: dull, rough, irritated, or redness, you may even have exacerbated acne issues, clogged pores, and bumps! When skin feels dry it is more likely that you have become dehydrated at the surface and that is something we can fix.

Step 1: Accurately determining the root cause of your situation is key to choosing the right product to bring relief and healing. Once you have a better understanding of your skin issue - knowing what to reach for is critical to addressing the problem.

Step 2: Understanding the fundamental differences between moisturizers, salves, serums, balms, creams, and lotions - this is your road map.

It may seem like I’m mincing words but it’s important to have an understanding of the difference to unlock the unique balance of water and oil YOU need for happy, healthy skin.

…

Dry skin is a “skin type” and is a lifelong condition. It’s characterized by fewer oil-producing glands on the face, body, and scalp.

Dehydrated skin, on the other hand, lacks water, not oil. This is why you can have an oily complexion, and experience outbreaks, clogged pores, and acne but still have dehydrated skin.

…

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first things first …. OILS DO NOT MOISTURIZE.

The molecular construction of pure fats, oils, seed butters, and plant waxes does not include even one molecule of H20.

Salves, balms, and facial oils, none of these have a water component. So according to the laws of nature, they can NOT moisten the skin.

Oils deliver many important benefits to the skin, but they don’t penetrate the deepest cellular layers the way water, or an emulsion (lotion or cream) that contains water does.

While oils, with their unique skin-loving properties, are vital for maintaining happy healthy skin, oils do not hydrate. Only water can do this. But one needs the other, which is why both oil and water in skincare are the two most fundamental ingredients for healthy skin. 

So if oils DON’T moisturize: What do they do?

Oils, seed butters, and plant waxes can be used alone, or to create salves, balms, unguents, and ointments, all different emulsions of oils with waxes or seed butters.

They are all emollient and occlusive. They condition and nourish the dermis and epidermis, helping them stay healthy, resilient, soft, and supple and they SEAL in moisture by reducing trans-dermal water loss from the surface.

Over time, a reduction or lack of skin oils can compromise your skin’s natural barrier, defenseless against water evaporating, leading to a loss of hydration. Climate, age, genetics, environment, emotions, skincare routines, and habits, all impact skin oil production.

Soft, supple skin is better able to RETAIN moisture but to relieve dry skin we need more than that. We need oil AND water.

WHAT DO WE MEAN WHEN WE SAY “MOISTURE”?

The simple answer: MOISTURE = WATER

Water-based ingredients include plain old distilled water, Aloe Juice Hydrosol water, or Flower water. These are sources of actual moisture. These “Water” ingredients are emulsified with other ingredients (oils, butters, humectants), which capture and hold that moisture on the skin for a period of time.

“Humectants” greatly enhance the efficacy of a moisturizing product.

“Humectants” are different from the water ingredient in that they function by grabbing moisture from the environment (or the water in the formula) and holding on to it. While the water ingredient itself does not do that.

Natural humectants include glycerine and glycerites, hyaluronic acid, seaweed extracts, Aloe gel, alpha hydroxy acids such as lactic acid, and honey - look for these to bring additional healing properties. (There are many synthetic humectants also).

“WATER IN OIL” or “OIL IN WATER” EMULSIONS? How to know what you need?

Without getting too technical, the important thing to remember when looking for a product to relieve dehydrated skin that does not lack natural oils is to choose an " oil-in-water emulsion” because it contains more water than a “water-in-oil emulsion.” This makes it more moisturizing.

But it’s difficult to tell just by reading a label. What you need to know is simple … Choose a “LOTION” when the skin needs more moisture and a “BODY BUTTER or CREAM” when the skin craves more oils.

Just remember that a good rule of thumb is “Creams” and “Body Butter” are “water in oil emulsions” comprised of about 2/3 oil (oils, butters, waxes) and 1/3 water (or water-soluble ingredients) while “Lotions” are “oil in water emulsion” - about 2/3 water and 1/3 oil.

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LAST BUT NOT LEAST: how to use pure facial oils for better results.

If your dry skin issues are not severe or acute then you can reduce your use of lotions and creams with the use of facial oils - BUT! We must apply facial oils to damp skin for them to be the most effective and to provide moisture.

Massaging the oils into your skin while it is damp or wet increases the absorption rate, reduces the emollience (oily feeling) of the oils, and seals in some of the moisture.

Pure, 100% Hydrosol waters are the best way to provide wetness (moisture). They are slightly acidic, which the skin needs, and provide hundreds of nourishing plant compounds.

Add MORE moisture to your routine by spritzing with pure, steam-distilled hydrosol water before application of your facial lotion or cream or pure oils, salves, or balms without a moisture component.

STUDIES AND REFERENCES FOR FURTHER READING: